Today's Topic: Spain V: the Basque Country: San Sebastian, Pamplona, Bilbao, Guernica
In Part One of this series, we covered Madrid (La Plaza Mayor, El Palacio Real, and the "Golden Triangle" of art museums. In Part Two, Toledo, Segovia, and El Escorial. In Part Three, Andalusia (Sevilla, Cordoba, Granada.) In Part Four, Catalonia (Barcelona, the Sagrada Familia, and Montserrat). Today, the Basque Country with a focus on San Sebastian, Pamplona, Bilbao, and Guernica.
Are you of Basque ancestry? Have you visited the region? Studied its history? Savored its cuisine? What do you know that the rest of us might well not but would delight to learn?
Experts — please chime in. Correct, elaborate, elucidate.
GUERNICA — the "Oak Tree of Gernika" (below) is the symbol of Basque "liberties and autonomy," it is there that the President of the Basque provinces ("Lehendakari") takes his oath of office."
1. "Guernica" (1937) a black-and-white painting by Picasso is perhaps the most famous painting of the 20th century. It depicts the bombing of the Basque town on April 26, 1937 by the Condor Legion of the German Luftwaffe and the Italian Aviazione Legonaria at the behest of the leader of the Nationalists under the command of General Francisco Franco.
2. Initially, estimates of those killed was 1,654. Since then that number has been reduced to 164. The bombing is considered a "dress rehearsal" for the bombings of Warsaw and the Blitz of London, and, ultimately, those of Dresden and Hiroshima.
3. The traditional Basque liberties were called "fueros" ("a collection of ancient, customary laws, privileges, and exemptions that governed political, economic, and judicial life in the Basque provinces and Navarre. These charters granted the territories significant autonomy, including local self-government, tax exemptions, and exemption from compulsory military service outside their regions.")
BILBAO — the largest city and economic engine of the region, perhaps most famous for Gehry's Guggenheim Museum — the titanium-clad, deconstructivist masterpiece with shiplike curves
1. "The most important building of our time." (Philip Johnson, the first winner of the Pritzker Architecture Prize, the "Nobel Prize of Architecture").
2. "The building is credited with transforming a declining industrial city into a cultural hub, spawning the term "Bilbao Effect," which describes how iconic architecture can drive economic and social regeneration."
3. On the other hand, the museum has been condemned as a "symbol of gentrification and cultural imperialism." Is the term "Bilbao anomaly" more apt than that of "Bilbao effect"? Is it true that "the iconic chemistry between the design of building, its image and the public turns out to be rather rare." Is the best analogue the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Guggenheim museum in NYC (below)?
NB: The metropolitan population of Bilbao is a little over a million.
SAN SEBASTIAN — the culinary mecca of Spain, one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants per capita on the planet — have you been? recommendations?
1. Originally a Roman era settlement, became a strategic military post, and a trading center, then a luxury resort "around 1845 when Queen Isabella II established it as her royal summer retreat for therapeutic sea bathing."
2. "The best time to experience this gastronomic capital is from May to September, combining culinary exploration with its beautiful, famous La Concha beach (above)"
3. "The Old Town (Parte Vieja) is famous for bar-hopping, with must-try spots including Ganbara (foie gras, wild mushrooms) Borda Berri (risotto de Idiazabal), and La Cuchara de San Telmo."
PAMPLONA ("Iruna" in Basque) — technically not part of the "Basque Autonomous Region" but it is the capital of Navarra which is considered by many a Basque province and the Basque language is a co-official language in the northern zone of Navarra. By the way, have you run with the bulls?
1. The founder of Pamplona is considered to be the Roman General Pompey who set up camp here in 74–75 BC. The original name was Pompaelo. Pompey was part of the original Triumvirate along with Crassus and Julius Caesar. He was defeated by Caesar at the Battle of Pharsalus. In 48 BC he was assassinated and his head was presented to Caesar.
2. "The city is famous worldwide for the running of the bulls during the San Fermin festival which is held annually from 6 July to 14 July."
3. "This festival was brought to literary renown with the 1926 publication of Ernest Hemingway's novel The Sun Also Rises."
FOOTNOTE — the Basque diaspora in the United States
1. Concentrated in Idaho, Nevada, and California.
2. Began during the Gold Rushes of the 19th century.
3. Famous for sheepherding. Boise, Idaho has hosted the annual "Sheepherders Ball" since 1929.
Basque Country (greater region) — Wikipedia
Basque Country (autonomous community) — Wikipedia
Guernica (Picasso) — Wikipedia
Bombing of Guernica — Wikipedia
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao — Wikipedia
QUOTE OF THE MONTH
"Make your own Bible. Select and collect all the words and sentences that in all your readings have been to you like the blast of a trumpet."
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
My spin — then periodically review, re-rank, and exchange your list with those you love. I call this the "Orion Exchange" because seven is about as many as any human can digest at a time. Game?
LAST FOUR YEARS OF POSTS ORGANIZED THEMATICALLY:
PDF with headlines — Google Drive
ATTACHMENTS BELOW:
#1 A graphic guide to justice (9 metaphors on one page).
#2 "39 Songs, Prayers, and Poems: the Keys to the Hearts of Seven Billion People" — Adams House Senior Common Room Presentation, (11/17/20)
NB: Palestine Orion (Decision) — let's exchange Orions, let's find Rumi's field ("Beyond all ideas of right and wrong, there is a field. Meet me there" Rumi, 13 century Persian Sufi mystic)
YOUR TURN
Anything miscellaneous to share? Best trip you ever took in your life? Practical life tips? Random facts? Jokes?
Or, what is the best cartoon you have seen lately? or in the last 10 years? or the last 50?
Or what is your favorite holiday food? Main course? Dessert? Fondest food memories? Favorite foods to eat or prepare?
This is your chance to make someone else's day. Or to cement in your mind a memory that might otherwise disappear. Or to think more deeply about something dear to your heart. Continuity is key to depth of thought.